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12-21-99
Q: Dear Tim,
Greetings from cold cold Canada! Names Darrin, 18 years of age and one
heck of an 8-tracker!
(Got an Audiovox AM/FM/8-track in my '74 Javelin AMX....how cool is
that?)
Anywho, down to business.....I gotta bit of a problem. I have a Sears
Professional Series Model RE-1800 (which I beleive was their finest in
1974) It's the only one I've ever seen.....5 band equilizer, Reverb
control, Hi & Lo filters......it's even got a pseudo Quadraphonic
setting! (not real quad, but it matrixes a rear channel from the stereo
signal......works wonderful!!)
Anywho, my problem is in the PHONO circuit.....if I set the selector to
Phono and turn the volume above "2"..... I get the most horrific
rumbling sound!! (It blew my old set of speakers when my mom turned it
up and didn't know what was going on!) It's a really low bass-type
rumble.....which annoys me because I can't turn up my Edgar Winter
album! (Frankenstein man......thats groovy!)
So whats the deal with the old girl?Another thing, I've got a decent collection of Quad 8-tracks.....a
wondeful Akai CR-80D Quad player/recorder ,,,,,, but no quad amp!! I
know I've got the best player (for $150 american.....trust me, it IS the
BEST)........but I cannot make a decision on amps. I've narrowed it down
to three:#1 Marantz 4400
#2 Sansui QRX-5500 or 7500
#3 Pioneer QX-949aI've been told that Marantz is the best in the Quad game but I haven't
got $500 to buy one.
I've fallen in love with the looks of the Sansui's, but never get the
high bid .......
I've been told that the Pioneer 949a 's have very good power.....but are
kinda lacking in the decoder depratment........So, from a whipper snapper to the expert, what's your opinion? Which one
should I set my sights on?
Do you maybe have a better one in mind? Please, let me know! I'm dying
to play Deep Purple's "Lazy" in true Quad!!!Please, gimme some advice.....and do you know of anybody who has an IN
DASH Quad 8-track player that might fit my Javelin? Want to impress myu
friends.......heheheThanks in advance!!
Darrin.
A: Darren,
You are waaaaaaay cool! 8 tracks AND a Javelin! If you're lucky, you'll never have to leave your driveway! Now, as you say, down to business. Your Sears phono section is in need of repair. You have a bad phono preamp transistor and/or coupling capacitor. If you can identify the phono section, it might be worth trying to 'shotgun' the problem. That is, replace all of the suspect components at once instead of troubleshooting to a specific transistor, etc. As for your quad amp needs, the Marantz is definitely the most collectable. But the Sansui and Pioneer both come with all of the decoders built in. The Marantz requires a separate module for SQ, and a stand alone adapter for CD4. I would opt for the Pioneer or Sansui ( I have a Pioneer QX-949 and a Sansui QRX-8001) and work towards acquiring the Marantz and all of it's accessories in the future. At any rate, you've got a great start to becoming a true eccentric!
Thanks for writing.
Tim
11-28-99
Q: Dear Tim,
I have two older Pioneer units that need some troubleshooting. The
first is an RT-909 reel to reel that I bought a few years ago from a friend
of my wife. The deck worked fine for a long time then all of a sudden it
started to eat tapes a bit.What it does is play normal then the tape jumps
off track, then you can hear the track on side B in muffled reverse and side
A can either no longer be heard,or is mixed with side B. Upon close
observation, the tape glides along just fine then it jumps track, you can see
the tape go through the guides at an angle and make a terrible krinkling
sound,naturally messing up the tape in that spot. If I stop the tape and
start it again several times it eventually will play right.I have made a semi
laymens guess as to what the problem is. I beleive the capstan belt is
slipping and it feels like the left idler roller is pitted and worn, my guess
is they both need replacing. My second unit is an SX-1050 receiver, it too
was working fine then the out put started popping off then coming back on for
10 or 15 minutes, then out again Finally, there was no output at all just an
occasional mild popping sound. I hope you might be able to give me some ideas
as to what these problems might be. I hope to hear from you soon.
thank you very much...........Bryce
A: Hello Bryce,
Tape skewing can be caused by several things. The most common is a badly worn pinch roller. It can also be caused by incorrect take-up and/or supply reel motor torque. I have even seen cases where extreme head wear can cause the tape to skew from it's correct path. A slipping capstan belt would only effect the tape speed or it might produce eccesssive wow and flutter. Your SX-1050 has a potentially more severe problem. It sounds like the protect circuit is activating, which means there is DC on the speaker output bus caused by a failed component somewhere. You can isolate the problem to either the preamp or amp section by removing the 'pre out/main in' jumpers. If you hear the protect relay click in with the amp separated from the preamp, then the problem is in the preamp section. If nothing changes, then the problem is in the amp section and/or protect circuitry.
Thanks for writing.
Tim
11-01-99
Q: Hi Tim,
I found a Luxman R-1050 receiver in the trash a few years ago. Everything but FM worked. I tracked that to a fuse that looked good, but was bad. So I got that working. But, it has "dolby FM" and when I turn that on, you can barely hear it. It won't pick up stereo either. Any suggestions??? It's a great stereo, and it drives my speakers very well. The sound quality is just astounding. It sounds so much better than my new Pioneer. I would like to know the cause for not receiving in stereo or dolby fm. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom Harvey
p.s. do you know of any classic luxman sites? I know absolutely nothing about this receiver.
A: Hello Tom,
Well, I haven't resorted to looking in the trash for classic audio gear yet, but that may change! Dolby FM was a format that didn't make it. There currently is no such thing as a Dolby FM broadcast, so you don't have to worry about that. As far as the lack of stereo reception goes, you may have an alignment problem or component failure. If there is a 'mono' button or mode, check that it is not engaged and that the switch or control is not intermittant. I am not aware of any Luxman specific web sites. If you find one, let me know. BTW, your R-1050 was made between 1976 and 1979, sold for $695.00 and is rated at 55 watts per channel.
Thanks for writing.
Tim
10-12-99
Q: Hi Tim,
I've had my Citation 17 for a long time (late 70's). It is connected to
the Citation 12 Deluxe amp. There is a subtle but annoying noise only on
the phono circuits. The phono (a Pioneer PL530) works fine for awhile,
then the noise starts. It is difficult to describe, but it is like a
rumbling sound. I've had it in two different shops, some routine repairs
were done (cleaning and a volume switch was replaced) but the noise
continues. What should I do next? Could it be the turntable? I really
like this unit and I hate to have to start looking for a new piece.
Thanks.
Robyn in Maine
A: Hello Robyn,
Noise in the phono section of an amplifier is fairly common because of the high gain involved. The problem is most likely a component failure, probably a transistor or coupling cap, in the phono section itself. To determine that the turntable is not at fault, short the phono inputs and listen for the noise. My guess is that it will still be there.
Thanks for writing.
Tim
09-20-99
Q: Hello. I have a question regarding power amps. I recently purchased a Yamaha M-85 power amplifier. I purchased it because I was told that power amps aren't made like they used to be. I contacted Yamaha for information about the amp and about all I could find out about it was that it was made in 1986, retailed for $1100.00, and produced 260 watts per channel into 8 ohms. The amp also has selectors for 2 and 4 ohm settings but the person at Yamaha didn't have the specs as to the power output for the amp at these settings. Also, the amp has a Class A selector, for what good that does? And it also allows for three sets of speakers to be connected, with the appropriate speaker A, B, and C selectors. My questions to you are, did I make a wise choice? Is this a decent amp? What does the Class A switch do? And lastly, what happens to the power output when I connect multiple speakers and adjust the ohm load to the appropriate 2 or 4 ohm setting. For example, I have a surround system for my home theatre so I had thought about connecting my two front speakers into speaker A, surround into speaker B, and center channel into speaker C and then dropping the ohm load to 2. Is this possible? Would I be better off connecting my front speakers to a separate amp and only connecting my center channel and surround to this amp?
One last note. A confusing part about this amp is the display. It has a big meter bar display that shows watts at certain dB's. It has the wattage going up to 900 watts but the tech at Yamaha claims it to only be 260 watts into 8 ohms. Could you clarify this.
Any information you could give will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time!A: Hello Michael,
Your Yamaha amp is of superior quality. There are only a handful of amplifiers rated to drive loads as low as 2 ohms, the first one to come to mind is McIntosh to give you an idea of the company you are in. Class 'A' amplification is the purest form. Most amplifiers operate in a mode known as class 'AB' which is a compromise for the sake of efficiency. The catch is this, in class 'A' mode the amplifier runs very inefficiently and at lower power but very clean. You may notice that the operating temperature of the unit is much higher in class 'A' mode, this is due to the high bias required to operate the output transistors in this configuration. The object, I suppose, is to give you the cleanest possible amplification during critical listening periods yet allow you to use the amp as a 'daily driver'. The output meters are calibrated in dB, 0dB being the rated output of the amp i.e. 260 watts. This amp, however, is capable of producing greater than '0dB' under certain circumstances such as a low impedance load. As far as surround goes, you are only going to get a single stereo source out of all the speaker jacks. You need separate amps for true surround.
Thanks for writing,
Tim
08-18-99
Q: Hi Tim.
I purchased a pristine example of a Yamaha cr 2020 receiver from the
late 70's. I was told that this model was considered Yamaha's best
receiver ever made for that time period. Could you verify this? It sure
is built well.
Do you know how it compared to the cr 2040 sonically?
I noticed though there were no lights that lit up the meter and tuner
sections. Could you tell me if these bulbs are easy to replace and if
parts were available could it be done myself? The thought of shipping
this receiver for something as minor as that would be pretty expensive
since the package weighs in at over 55lbs.
Any information you have on this particular model would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks,
YounieA: Hello Younie,
Yes, the CR2020 was the flagship receiver for Yamaha at the time. I cannot comment on the sonic difference between the 2020 and the 2040. The XX40 series followed the XX20 series and in the smaller receivers the discrete output devices were replaced with integrated circuits, a definite compromise, I don't know if this is true for their high power units. The lamps in this unit are wired in "series-parallel", this means that one bad lamp would cause another good lamp not to light. Don't be surprised if upon replacing a bad lamp it does not light, this means there is another bad lamp somewhere in series with it.
Thanks for writing.
Tim
08-04-99
Q: Hi Tim I just picked up this great turntable at an estate sale for $25.00 and it works great most of the time except for when the tone arm wont lift up off the record all the way at times.It usually does it at the end of an albumn and the stylus actually is dragged back across the record .to the tone arms parked position.Untill i fix this im not into playing any of my classic jazz needless to say.Also i would like to replace the stylus Are these available without a hassle?This is my first Bang &Olufsen product and the quality and controls are really impressive I really want to get it in shape.I am a vinyl collector RECORDS,i love them.I also collect turntables amps recievers etc.Im an auto tech and do most of my repairs myself but this Beogram 4004 is a bit intimidating. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks Jeff In Vt.
A:Hello Jeff,
Congratulations on your great buy! I have repaired many of these turntables and I know exactly what the problem is. This is a common problem on the 4004 and 4002 model turntables. What has happened is that the lubricant at the tone arm pivot point has dried up and is restricting the normal up and down movement. The tone arm is mounted on a shaft at a right angle to the tone arm, and normally pivots up and down at this point. The only reliable solution is to remove the tone arm assembly from the shaft, clean out the dried up lubricant, apply new lubricant and reassemble. This is fairly delicate work, so be careful. You should be able to purchase a new cartridge at any authorized B&O dealer.
Thanks for writing!
Tim
07-20-99
Q: Aloha, Tim --
I have cherished my Luxman RX-101 Digital Synthesized Stereo Receiver since
1984. It has been a wonderful piece of equipment; the Duo-Beta Circuit
design was a marvel then and remains so today. I want to keep enjoying
this fabulous sound for as long as I can. Problem: the motorized retracting
faceplate (it protects the rotary dial knobs) isn't working, and so the
servo motor just keeps running and running. Thye receiver won't kick in
with the faceplate disengaged. Can you try to repair my trusted receiver?
The dealer from whom I purchased it (AudioVisual Company here in Honolulu)
has long since closed, and there is no Luxman dealer or repair shop in
Hawaii that I can find. Any help will be appreciated. Aloha ... --KenA: Hello Ken,
You most probably need to replace the belt that drives the door mechanism. Since original Luxman replacement parts are rare, you must save the old belt and have it measured for the correct replacement size. Any qualified repair shop should be able to handle the job.
Thanks for writing and Aloha!
Tim
06-11-99
Q: hi tim wonder if you could help me solve a problem with my harmon kardon
pm 645 amp on turning the unit on it makes a loud buzz through both
speakers then it stops for a little while.then after using the system
for a little while it hums then crackles really loud for a few seconds
then it stops but it comes back more the longer i use it it seems to
happen no matter what i am using at the time my tech can not find it . i
really like the amp and do not want to get rid of it hoping to hear
yuor opinion on the problem soon thank you peter p.s my tech replaced
a board he thought was faulty seemed to improve it a bit
A: Peter,
You're going to need a tech for this one. As you know, your amp is full of hundreds of electronic components and just about all of them can cause these symptoms. If the problem is identical in both channels, I would look in the power supply. If the problem is only in one channel, look in that channel and use the good channel for comparison. It may be a thermal problem, i.e. the problem changes as the unit warms up. If this is the case you may be able to isolate the problem by using 'freeze spray' on suspect components. When you cool a thermally unstable component, it will usually fail. But, again, this is a job that only a tech should take on.
Happy hunting!
Tim
06-06-99
Q: I am thinking about purchasing a pair of (Luxman) 3045 amps, one has a blown power transformer (output), is this a good idea, I can buy the pair pretty cheap. Will I be able to repair & get parts- do you know anyone who can help fix it. Are they good amps to begin with? I believe they are currently running w/ 6550 tubes-which is a modification from orig. I think. I;m looking for any opinions that you have to help me. Pls. call me if you would like- 800-621-XXXX
Thank you very much- Paul Joyaux 06-04-99
A: Hello Paul,
About the worst thing that could go wrong with a tube amplifier is the loss of the output transformer. Because of their expense and the fact that they do not fail often, dealers are very unlikely to stock replacements. With older units, like the classic McIntosh MC-240 etc., replacement transformers are extremely scarce. Adding to the difficulty is the necessity to find an exact replacement to preserve the aesthetics of the unit. A pair of M-3045s recently sold at auction for $1525.00, they are a very desirable item. You may have to wait for many years to find a parts unit for sale.
Thanks for writing and good luck!
T. Whyte
05-16-99
Q: Dear Tim, I have had a Dynaco ST-120 power amp, since assembling it from a
kit more years ago than Iam willing to admit. For the past several years, it
has been the driver for monitor speakers in a small coffee house /
performance space. Recently, in the middle of a show, one of the output
coupling caps exploded, during a show (it is a 60s vintage, single sided
power supply design, so it is all capacitively coupled).This was very disturbing to both performers and audience, alike. It also
sprayed electrolyte here-and-there. Do you know any good parts source for
such old caps? is 11,000 uf at 80 vdc. It is Mallory part, which fit into a
sepcific space, with litte room to spare, and most of the reasonable
alternatives at my local parts place are too tall.I also have a Crown DC-300A, which has developed a strong buzz. Any
thoughts?
A: Hello,
Capacitors explode because of overheating. Pressure from gases build up inside the can until it blows. Overheating can be caused by an overvoltage condition or a random short inside the capacitor itself. It can produce quite a show, as you witnessed. Make sure that the power supply and output section are OK before replacing the cap or it may blow again. Your best bet for finding that cap is to quiz your local older TV repair shops, they may have old stock. Be sure to quiz the old guys as the young techs may not be aware of the existence of caps like that. Your Crown may have a similar problem, check the caps and the rectifer(s).
Thanks for writing!
T. Whyte
05-10-99
Q: HI! TIM.
i own several marantz units,they are as follows. 2270 in wood case, 2385, 2
of 4230,
one 4240,an 1160 intgr.amp. and an 1122D intgr.amp.
the 2270 works fine but to hear decent volume the dial has to be turned up
around the 12 o"clok position, other units that i have when you put the
volume control at
this position the windows shake and they are not rated as having the same
power output. is there a problem with the unit?
also on the 4240'' s each one has a non working channel,both are identical
but have
different type out put transistors that cros to the same performance ratings
according to the ecg catalouge, my qustion is can they be intermingled
because
one type which has the round shell casing is no longer available for purchase.
any advise is greatly appreciated! also what is your opinion on the other
units
as to their value and collectabelity. i thank you for any suggestions or
advise.MARIO DiMANNO
HAMILTON , ONT. CANADA
A: Hello Mario,Yes, your 2270 has a problem. The most common problem with these older units is dirty contacts on the controls and switches. This usually effects one channel at first, but will eventually knock out or diminish both. It is also possible that you have internal component failures. Again, it is unusual for both channels to be effected at once so check the obvious first. Is the sound normal through the headphones? Do you have anything inserted into the pre-in/main-out loop?
Your output transistors should be interchangable. Be sure to verify the emitter, base and collector configuration as being identical. Also, they must fit correctly on the heat sink. Do not try to operate the units with unsinked output transistors, you will create smoke.
As far as your other units, 1160 is not a valid Marantz model number, the 2385 has high value because of it's power rating (185 watts/channel). Check the 'valuation' section for the others. Nice collection. Thanks for writing!
T. Whyte
04-25-99
Q: Hi Doc-
I'm in a fix...literally. I have a Pioneer SX-450 receiver that's about 20 years old. It still sounds great, but there seems to be a short in the power switch. I've tried cleaning it and can hear it sizzle. The power switch is incorporated with the speaker switch, which seems to be working ok. I've talked to Pioneer, and they say the part is no longer available. I've been searching the web all afternoon, to no avail. Is there a place that specializes in vintage stereo parts? I'm willing to pay, because I really like this receiver, and I'm sure it would still be cheaper than buying a new one. I'm sure you get asked this one a lot...can you help?
I would really appreciate any lead you could give me...
thanks!
Rick Halberg
A: Hi Rick,
Don't you just love those old Pioneer receivers? The sizzling sound you hear is most likely the contact cleaner being boiled away by the heat created inside your worn out switch. The contacts are burnt, perhaps by plugging something that required high current into the 'switched' outlet on the rear of the unit. (Note to all owners of old equipment with switched outlets: preserve your original switches, do not use them for power amps or other high current devices!) I would recommend that you bypass the original power switch, usually located on the rear of the switch assembly, and use a power strip or switched wall outlet to turn the unit on and off. That way you will preserve the original speaker switch.
Thanks for writing.
T. Whyte
04-07-99
Q: Hi Doc,
Excellent site and Q&A page. I live in New Zealand and have recently picked up an old Carver Receiver (called just "The Carver Receiver"), made in around 1983, I think. It was already converted to run on 240V (the NZ mains voltage), in line with the Carver instructions supplied with it. It works just fine, apart from a hum coming from the power transformer (not through the speakers - the transformer is physically humming).
I've had the transformer out and tightened the screws that hold the core together, but it's still the same. Do you know if it is possible to get a replacement transformer, where would I go to get it (by mail order) and roughly how much would it cost? Or are there any other options? It looks like the Carver site has been taken offline so I can't ask them, and I can't find any information on it on the Internet. Any help you can give me would be most welcome. Looking forward to your reply.
Thanks.
Jon Frere
A: Hello Jon,
Thanks for writing. I have encountered this problem on several occasions. What may be happening is that the laminate between the sections of the transformer is deteriorating, allowing them to vibrate at the line frequency and make the corresponding noise. In my experience, if tightening the screws doesn't help, nothing will. Just in case, you should also check the voltage conversion and make sure it was done correctly.
Another possibility, I believe that this receiver uses the Carver Magnetic Field system. If so, there is a triac in line with the primary of the power transformer. If this circuit is not functioning correctly, it could be responsible for the noise and replacing the transformer will not solve the problem.
Try contacting Carver in Lynnwwod, WA at 206-775-1202. Good luck!
Regards,
T. Whyte
04-06-99
Q: Hello Doc!
What can you tell me about the CL-34 preamp, tube comp.
year made and retail, thinking of trading for this but i dont know what
it looks like and how quiet it ay be. What is the next
model after that??Thanks Frank
A: Hello Frank!
Your Luxman CL-34 was built between 1981 and 1984, it retailed for $700.00. Current resale value is between $400.00 and $500.00. There is only one tube model that cost more, the CL-35III, built between 1976 and 1980. The other tube models, CL-32 and CL-35I LTD, sold for $645.00 and $495.00. Sorry, I don't have any information on the tube complement. Thanks for writing!
T. Whyte
04-01-99
Q: Dear Doctor-
I have had little luck finding information about Nikko audio equipment and
what happened to the company. About 18 years ago, I picked up some
separates - the Alpha 220, Beta 20 and Gamma 20. They have performed
flawlessly since that time.My interest in stereo equipment and listening has peaked again, and I was
wondering about a couple of things. How do or did this equipment rate and
what would be comparable modern equipment? I'm trying to figure out if
it's worth rebuilding - or if I really won't notice much of a difference
unless I spend lots. I recently upgraded to Snell Model D speakers. The
system sounds quite good now.And, is there a web-site anywhere with info about the old stuff like Nikko?
Thanks.
Ed A.
A: Hello Ed,
Thanks for writing! I remember attending a stereo show in Mountain View, CA in the early seventies and one of the things that sticks in my mind was the Nikko equipment. As a young boy, I was quite impressed.
Although their gear was in the middle of the price range at the time, recent resale prices have been poor. Unfortunately, I have no modern experience with Nikko. It appears that they stopped manufacturing in the early nineties. They were distributed by a Canadian company called AVS Technologies (514-683-1771)
As far as what to do with it, your gear was made in the early 80's and is not yet very collectable. The Gamma 20 tuner, for example, sold for $400.00 but currently has a retail value of less than $50.00. If you like the stuff, keep it! Someday it will be collectable. You did not say if the equipment was broken. Rebuilding it for the sake of improvement could destroy it's future collectability, if any.
A search on the Internet yielded no direct references to Nikko, but I would not be surprised if someday someone created a site about this popular manufacturer.
Regards,
T. Whyte
03-24-99
Q: Dear Tim,
I picked up an old Marantz 2325 that works just fine. Can you tell me
where I can pick up some VU lamps for the old gal. Also what is the
approximate age of the unit? I guess that it is 20 years young and
still kicking.
Don from West Palm Beach, Florida
A: Hello Don,
Congratulations on your purchase and thanks for writing! Your Marantz 2325 was built between 1974 and 1975 and retailed then for $800.00. Definitely a high end unit. The '25' in the model designation would normally refer to a power rating of 25 watts, for example, a model 2225 would be rated at 25 watts. Yours however, being a 2325, is rated at 125 watts. The 3 indicates that the power rating scale starts at 100 watts.
The illumination is somewhat tricky. This era receiver probably uses 8 volt fuse type lamps for the dial and meters, 6.3 volt lamps for the function indicators and possibly 12 volt lamps for the 'stereo' indicator. Sometimes two lower voltage lamps, say six volt, were wired in series across a twelve volt circuit such as the 'stereo' indicator. Be careful. The best way to determine the proper voltage is to read the designation on the old lamps if they are original, if they are not, you should use a voltmeter to determine the correct voltage. Unfortunately, reading voltage across a burned out lamp will give you the open circuit value, not the operating value. Sometimes they are the same, sometimes not. Like I said, it can be tricky. It's important to find the correct lamp values to maintain the original appearance of a classic like yours.
I have been able to find all the lamps necessary at my local electronics supplier. The brand of lamps they carry is from a company called 'PRB'. I do not have any contact information for them, but you might find them on the web. Good luck!
Regards,
T. Whyte
03-16-99
Q: I was recently given a Harmon Kardon model 430 receiver, however, I think it
has seen better days. The sound that comes out of the speakers is mostly
static or very loud popping on speaker 1 circuit. Speaker 2 circuit, there is
some sound, but either soft or popping and cracking. Turning the volume knob,
I get very loud static. Do you think it is worth having it repaired? Is there
something I can fix myself? I appreciate any help Thanks very much.Rob
A: Hello Rob,
Your H/K 430 receiver was made between 1976 and 1977, which makes it potentially collectable. There is currently not much demand for vintage H/K receivers, with Pioneer and Marantz (mostly Marantz) setting the pace. This era of receiver used discrete components verses integrated circuits. If the noise appears with the volume control down, the problem is in the final amp stage. If the noise appears only with the volume control up, then the problem is in the preamp stage. Unless you can troubleshoot to the component level, I don't think there is much you can do. This does not sound like a problem that could be resolved by cleaning a dirty control. Current (working) value of the unit is probably around $75.00. You might want to just store it for a few years until the value rises.
Thanks for writing!
T. Whyte
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