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12-31-04
Q: I have a sansui 5000a that has a strange problem. When using only headphones, the sound in both channels is fine. however, when switching on a pair of speakers, there is a slight distortion in the right channel and a quiet 60 cycle buzz. any suggestions? I've checked solder connections, replaced defective caps, and a few transistors on the f-1041 right channel board, but still the problem persists. Your help is greatly apprecieted.
A: Hello Jordan,
I suspect the amp does not like the speaker load. When using headphones a resistor is placed in series with them to limit the power. The headphones provide a higher impedance load to the amp, which is less demanding to it.
08-28-04
Q: Hi Tim,
I have a Marantz 2230 driving Klipsch Cornwalls. When I turn on the Marantz there is a VERY loud burst or pop from predominately the left speaker......loud on a Cornwall is VERY loud. It happens even if I have the volume control at zero. If I have the A speaker output switch off, it happens as soon as I switch the speaker on. After the "pop" the amp functions as sweatly as always. Any ideas? Caps maybe?
Thanks in advance.
JonA: Hello Jon,
Yes, caps. Check the DC output at the speaker terminals. If it is anything but zero volts, you may want to stop using it as it could damage your Klipsch. The 2230 uses large capacitors to de-couple the DC from the output stage. Check those capacitors.
Tim
08-11-04
Q: Hi,
Recently, I bought Citation 14 FM tuner on eBay. When I received the item, there was no output, even though the tuning meters (Quieting and Center)were responding to the tuning. I noticed that mono sound, although little bit distorted, was available. I used to build AM radio and audio amps, but no experience in FM circuitry. Any comment or suggestion suitable for my background will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Moo-Jhong
A: Hello Moo-Jhong,
Sounds like you have a serious problem. Check the power supplies for correct voltages.
Tim
08-11-04
Q: Hello Tim.
I recently bought a vintage 2238 Marantz on ebay from a guy who said it was "clean as a whistle" and sounds "terrific." Cosmetically, it looks nice and clean, but when I got it out of the box it smelled heavily of cigarette smoke and made me think it was not kept in a very clean environment. For example, there seems to be more than usual static on FM and AM even on some local channels that come in pretty strong on my other audio equipment. There is also a fair amount of crackle when I first turn it on, start tuning it and adjusting the volume, and the sound tends to fade in and out as I use it for awhile.
Do I need to have it cleaned? If so, is there some cleaning I can do myself with a little D5 that I could try out before sending it to a "repair shop?" I didn't spend that much on it and I am reluctant to spend $150 or more to have a certified technician look at it.
Second, can you recommend a good AM or FM antenna that might help to pull in more clearly some of my more local channels? I don't need a monstrous thing that pulls in stations from hundreds of miles away. I am just a little surprised my local AM and FM channels don't come in a little more clearly.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Mike
A: Hello Mike,
You might be able to solve some of the problems with cleaning, but the FM reception problem is a different matter. Marantz tuners do not hold their alignment well over time and realignment on them is somewhat tricky. I'm confident your reception problem is related to misalignment of the FM tuner section. You will probably need to have it serviced.
Tim
R: Tim,
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Based on your response, all I can say is "bummer!" I am a newbie to vintage audio and bought from a guy I probably should not have bought from. I will never buy a vintage stereo online from anyone but a certified technician again. As I mentioned, I am not inclined to spend the extra money on getting it serviced. I already paid a little over $200 on the thing and based on the estimated "blue book" value, I probably overpaid as it is. Now, to spend another $100 to $150 on it looks like not a good option. If I had invested more in a higher end marantz, I might reconsider spending more to get it seviced right, but I think I would rather cut my losses and pick up another unit I know will work. It was a good learning exercise. Ouch!
Maybe I will probably just clean this one up as best I can and use it for playing CDs or something.
Thanks again for getting back to me. In this day and age, getting a quick, courteous response from a stranger to an email is a very nice feeling.
It makes me inclined to explore the classic audio world a little more.
Take care.
Mike
07-31-04
Q: Hi Tim,
Thanks for your recent advise regarding my ailing turntable.
I have another situation on which I'd value you opinion. I recently
purchased a Sony TS-558 RTR deck with significant problems. Cosmetically,
it looks beautiful and handles the tape flawlessly, but something's amiss
with the audio side.One channel plays fairly well, though there is frequent loud static which
maxes out the vu meter. The other channel is extremely faint and has a fair
amount of static, too. Mind you, I'm not talking about tape hiss; this is
some serious sonic trash. The sound is identical to the sound an AM radio
makes in the presence of a thunderstorm when it is tuned between stations.
The functioning of the channels is exactly reversed when the direction is
changed (it's a bi-directional deck), and the static continues unchanged if
the deck is paused during playback.I had hopes that the trouble may simply be dust in the contacts or one of
the pots, so I broke it down and cleaned the pb volume controls and monitor
source selectors with contact cleaner and also cleaned pretty much every
other switch and control I could get to. The mechanicals were surprisingly
clean, and from the fact that there are a couple of slightly marred screw
heads, I'm gathering this unit has seen an electronics repair bench some
time in the past.Whatever it is that's wrong with it is going to take significantly more
electronics savvy than I can bring to the table. Does my description imply
to you the failure of any specific electronic component(s)? Any suggestion
of how I may keep the cost of repair in line with the likely value of a
fully-functioning deck? I don't have a fortune tied up in it yet
(~$100.00), but if I start shelling out big bucks to get it repaired it may
cost me my marriage as well. Also, the unit weighs 45 lbs., so the shipping
cost is going to be significant if I have to send it somewhere to have it
repaired. That said, it is a thing of beauty with lots of potential, so I
feel compelled to have it repaired.Thanks again.
ToddA: Todd,
Sounds like the playback amplifier is shot. This is a very high gain (volume) circuit that will need competent repair. Any shop you take it to should also be able to do a complete alignment of the unit to your selected tape type. Expect to spend in excess of $100.00 for this service. You can try cleaning the record/play switch if there is one. This would be a large multi-contact switch that operates when the record mode is activated.
Tim
07-28-04
Q: hey there tech, just a fuse question
first of all, let me say that i am no tech head!
i am running my dj setup (at home) through a pioneer E-1000a/h amp with a intergrated reciever. (p.s i live in nz, the mains is 240 here)
the back of the case says this...PIONEER E-1000A/H
220-240v
AC 50-60hz
30-watts!
i can see that when all the display lights are meant to be working, there should be a beautiful blue background to the reciver display mmmmmmm.
the only light working at the moment is the pointer for the frequency band.ive opened it up and there are four fuses for the display in a row. the first three were blown, the fourth being the only lit one. the fuses are wired in a parallel circuit pattern. i removed the fuses which said 0.3a on them, and replaced them with 0.35 250v fuses (the nearest i could get). i turned the amp on, and the first three fuses blew again after a fash of the correct display! 8( my question is basically, do you know what is happening? am i installing the correct fuses? what are the ampage are the original fuses meant to be? there is pretty crappy product support here, and i am loath to buy a service manual on the net
any help would be greaty appreciated, thanks
A: Hello Rowan,
Well, if you did indeed replace the old "fuses" with new fuses they would certainly just blow. They are not fuses, but lamps. What you need is a "fuse type lamp" rated at 300mA and probably 8 volts. The voltage should be stamped on the old lamp and will not be more than 12V.
07-28-04
Q: Hello Tim,
Quick question, I recently bought a Pioneer SA-8500 II from E-bay. I have it hooked up to a pair of Pioneer HPM-700, which sound great on my other gear. Anyway when I turned up the volume on this amp it starts to distort and 1/3 volume level. I looked under the hood and it looks like the output transistors have been replaced. How can I tell if this was original specification? Thanks
A: Hello Jim,
You will need to have the amp tested for power and distortion. Chances are the unit was repaired, but not thoroughly tested, and the amp section is not operating correctly.
Tim
07-04-04
Q: Hi Tim,
I've been shopping around for a 70's Marantz receiver (maybe a Pioneer) and have noticed that some of them cannot drive a 4 ohm load such as the 2270 even though they have provisions for two sets of speakers (receivers are wired to run in series for 16 ohms?).
My question is: Why aren't these important (to me anyway) specs given with most Marantz's and some Pioneers? (at least on this and other sites I've visited). I understand why a receiver wouldn't function correctly at 4 ohms, but why would a manufacturer like Marantz make a receiver that can deliver 70 WRMS @0.3% distortion per channel at 8 ohms, charge almost $600.00 for it in the middle 70's and not design it so it could also run at 4 ohms? thanks,
BobA: Hello Bob,
I think you have been misinformed. Most high quality vintage receivers will handle 4 ohm loads without any problem. I am currently using a Marantz 2270 in my home to power a pair of 4 ohm speakers. Many manufacturers did not publish a 4 ohm rating for their equipment. I suspect this is because, in many cases, the power rating at 4 ohms is less than at 8 ohms and that just isn't good PR. It takes an extremely high quality amplifier to deliver an equivalent amount of power into 4 ohms. Many vintage receivers did have a 4 ohm rating, such as the Pioneer SX-1010 (http://www.classicaudio.com/value/pio/SX1010.html).
Tim
06-07-04
Q: Hi there. I hope this question isnt too much of a waste of time. I have just purchased an absolutely mint condition Marantz 2250B reciever. Its pretty nice. It even has the wood case, and the original box!! $130 at a flea market!!!! Can't beat that. My question is what if any difference is there between the 2250 and the 2250B, which I have? It would seem that there has to be something, as there is a considerable difference between the values in your 'valuation' section.
-- another quickie --
Is it common for there to be a high frequency 'hiss' with Stereo FM broadcast? I notice it on 3 stereo receivers that I have, including the Marantz. It goes away with the mono switch on. It's pretty annoying. Is this just something that I suddenly noticed going back to stereo? (I was previously using an old Heathkit tube tuner without a mpx adapter.)Thanks for your help.
Aaron
A: Hello Aaron,
In this case, not too much difference. The "B" model has some improvements in build quality and circuit design. The difference in value may be contributed to the fact that the market prefers more letters on the model numbers. That may sound silly, but for example the Sansui 9090DB sells for more than the 9090. In my opinion the 9090 is more desirable due to the lack of the now obsolete Dolby section.
As for your FM question, yes, there is a price to pay for stereo and it is noise. Due to the nature of FM multiplex, summing the channels cancels the noise. The noise should be less prevalent on strong stations.
06-02-04
Q: Not to take up a whole lot of your time, but I, like many others must be, are confused by 1/4" analogue audio recording tape standards. Mostly bias requirements and the complicated methods od setting up to match a particular tape to a machine. Most high end domestic machines require long drawn out set up procedures and test equipment not usually available to the home studio or enthusiast. now while most of us can set head alignment and azumith settings, choosing a tape to give best results with a specific machine are "befudeling" me. I have a teac A-3440, Pioneer RT-707 and a NAGRA III , which seem to give very good results with BASF/Emtec SM 468 tape but not with say Ampex 641. The 468 gives good quality/noise/level and seems to like all three machines perfectly but the 641 is extremely low recorded levels (-10dB below normal) when playing back a 0 level recording) but the 468 is pretty close to 0 level with the same tests. My questions are.
*1. Is there a "standard" tape type or equivalents listing (prefereably in real English) as to which tapes from different manufacturers are similar in bias requirements.
*2. If not, could you at least reccomend somespecific tapes similar to 468 (in standard and extended play thicknesses) so I don't make the same mistake twice of buying lots of tape not matched to my machines as SM 468 is becoming harder to find at reasonable prices.Thanks for your time guys .................. John
A: Hello John,
In the professional world each machine is aligned for each batch of tape. This is obviously not practical for the home enthusiast. Many manufacturers provided bias select switches so you could get close to correct alignment when switching tape types. The types of tapes recommended for these settings was listed in the user manual. Given the age of your machines, all bets are off. You should have your machines professionally aligned to your favorite tape type and compare the specs of that tape to others you are considering using.
05-11-04
Q: Tim,
I recently bought an older (1977 Technics) receiver from an unscrupulous eBay seller who did NOT reveal at least one key "issue" with the unit: Some person or animal URINATED in it - it stinks frightfully and there is no mistaking that odor (he's already told me that if I leave him negative feedback, he'll do the same to me - but that's another story).
Anyway, was wondering if you are aware of any techniques to try and remedy this appalling situation. There is almost nothing quite so bad as the smell of dried urine, especially as the unit warms up! Is there anyway it can be washed out without harming something? The case is probably a loss as I doubt the smell can be removed from wood, but thought the rest of it might have some potential for cleaning. Any thoughts or experience here? I'd have NEVER imagined in a thousand years I'd face this kind of weirdness!
Thanks,
Mark
NDA: Hello Mark,
Wow, bummer. Can't say as I've run into that problem, but most of the gear I buy I inspect first and would probably notice something like that. Try contacting your local feed store or veterinarian. I bet they deal with stuff like that all the time.
Tim
Follow Up:
Not a question, but advice for the person with the urinated receiver (boy, that sounds bad). The smell on the wood can be dealt with by cleansing with some TSP in a 1 part bleach to 4 part water solution. This will help, but not eliminate the smell. The TSP may need to be wiped off once it dries, as it will leave a film. Once it is fully dry, the wood can be sealed using BIN Bullseye Shellac Sealer/Finish inside and out. The idea is to seal the odor in.
I would think that some of the cheap electronic cleaners (not the good stuff you recommend, which by the way, saved an SX-780 I got at a Thrift Shop for $25--thanks) could be used to flush out the solids that remain on the board.
05-07-04
Q: hi there
what a fantastic facility! keep up the good work. my question is this, are band and olufsen amps (receivers actially) compatible with all types of speakers? i know b&o have compatibility problems with a lot of equipment, but the amp should drive any speakers, shouldn't it?
thanks a million
pat
A: Hello Pat,
An amp is an amp is an amp..... well, mostly. The compatibility issues with B&O generally have to do with the European connectors they use. Your B&O receiver should drive any speaker you like unless your particular B&O piece uses powered speakers, bi-amping, or something unusual like that.
05-06-04
Q: Hi.
I have (4) 8 ohm speakers but only 2 sets of speaker wires (R & L) going to the patio. How can I bundle them together? It seems like I could just go AMP (R) (+)----SPk A (+)----Spk B (+) Then Amp Spk A (-) ----Spk B (-) and the same for the Left side. But would that be 4 ohm, 2 ohm or 16 ohm? And would it work? I'm so confused.
Thanks,
TimA:Hello Tim,
Connect each pair in series. The left channel speaker wires would go to speaker 1 positive and speaker 2 negative, then connect a wire from speaker 1 negative to speaker 2 positive. Do the same for the right channel with speakers 3 and 4. This will give you a 16 ohm load which is safe for any amplifier.
04-29-04
Q: Tim,
I am looking at a vintage Pioneer SR-303 Reverb Amp to go with my Pioneer Sa-8800 and TX-7800 and RG-2 processor. (I like the looks). However, I am such a novice, that I really have no idea what it will do or how to use it. What is the purpose of the reverb amp?
A: Hello Jay,
It provides a reverb effect on any musical source. Reverb is sort of like an echo, it adds a feeling of a large physical space.
Tim
04-28-04
Q: Hi,
I have a Marantz 2330 Receiver which I purchased back in 1972 and still use to this day! The only problem I have ever had was some of the lamps going dark but just recently ran into a problem where the left channel valoume was sharply lower than the right. Thinking that the unit was obsolete and parts unavailable, I went out and searched the local audio stores only to find out that I would have to pay thousands to get the same power that I currently have with my Marantz 2330. So I took it into a local tech shop (Rainbow Electronics in Citrus Heights, CA) and the owner there told me that this unit has 130 watts of continuous power which is much better than anything currently on the market. He was also able to fix the unit with some minor transmitter replacements and cleaning up inside the unit. I was wondering if you can affirm what he said about the quality of this unit as compared to newer units available now.
I am still amazed at the sound I get from my Marantaz and hope to have another 30+ years of enjoyment out of it as well.
Thanks,
BillA: Hello Bill,
Well, that's easy. The 2330 retailed for $790.00 in 1978, that's over $2300.00 in today's money. You can find equipment today that is built as good as your 2330, but it will cost you a small fortune.
04-16-04
Q: I live in a basement I love really loud!!! music someone told me the other day that I have more chance of blowing my speakers because of the concrete or something do you know if he's right.
Hello Brian,
A: I think maybe your friend had a close encounter with some concrete, with his head. That's ridiculous. You can, however, blow up your speakers by overdriving your amplifier. If you like it loud, make sure your amp is big enough to avoid going into clipping. Overdriving an amplifier is a quick way to create a pyrotechnic display from your speakers.
04-15-04
Q: Hi Tim:
I'm the owner of an original vintage Pioneer SX-750 receiver. I'm the only owner having purchased the unit in 1977 and have used it as my receiver ever since. It's in absolutely mint condition and I have no desire to get rid of it. The only problem it's ever had were indicator lamps going dark (which were fixed in the 80's and work to this day) plus the usual volume and balance controls which over time get dirty. Recently the volume control has gotten to the point where even after cleaning with D-5 it just won't take care of it anymore. I've turned the power off and worked the volume control to where it works (for only a few minutes) but there apparently is a dead spot and it keeps cutting out. I've noticed that this also occurs when headphones are plugged in and speakers off so it's in the volume control itself. My guess is that the pot is simply worn out. After nearly 27+ years of constant use that being the only problem is pretty amazing!! I'm looking to either get it repaired by a qualified technician or simply get the volume pot and have someone locally install the part. Any suggestion on how to order the part or get this thing back to specs? Would Pioneer be able to give it the once over? Any suggestions on your part would be appreciatted. Kinda annoying when it keeps cutting out.Thanks
A: Bill
Hello Bill,
I doubt that Pioneer will be much help, but you should check with them about availability of the part. You will probably have to find another SX-750 or similar model for parts. It is unusual for the pot to fail completely, check for DC on the control.
Tim
04-15-04
Q: Hi Tim,
I have read through your responses to other questions before posting this one, I found some close parallels but none that were exactly like my problem.
I just bought two Pioneer integrated amps on ebay, (when will I learn?), models SA 9500 II and SA 9800. Both have the same problem. Sound is somewhat distorted and I can hear some crackling upon loud passages. On one amp when power is first turned on only one channel works until I crank up the volume or a loud musical passage is played. On both amps sound is distorted more so at low volume levels than high levels. The sound appears to want to keep cutting out unless loud musical passages are played or bass notes are played. After turning up the volume the sound is less intermittent but I can still hear a crackling sort of sound upon loud musical passages. If the amps are turned off then back on again within 10 seconds or so, the volume must be cranked up again to get non-intermittent sound. At lower volume you can only hear sound upon bass notes or loud musical passages. At idle with no input, the sound output is totally quiet, no cap noise or anything like that.
My Pioneer SX-1050 receiver (that I have owned since 1977) has the same problem as well. All my new Yamaha and Denon stuff work very well.
Does this sound like a problem that is fixable by an electronic service shop or are these beautiful silver faces headed for the garbage?
I love this old 70’s stuff as I grew up with it, but I’m really wondering if it is worth all the headaches trying to keep it working properly! I’m very frustrated!!! Thanks so much in advance for any advice!
Chris
A: Hello Chris,
Don't panic! It sounds very much like the "protect" relay contacts are dirty. Cleaning them with the correct cleaner may solve all of your problems. There is a possibility that the relays are damaged and will need to be replaced, but this is actually rather rare. You should also clean all of the switches and controls while you're at it. Any competent shop can do this work, just make sure they use the correct cleaner
(look here: http://www.classicaudio.com/service.html).
If that doesn't solve the problem you will have to seek competent repairs. If you're not sure the Pioneers are worth the effort, just visit your local stereo shop and audition some of the new stuff.Tim
04-13-04
Q: hi, i just bought a marantz 4270 quadradial reciever. i use it for 2 ch listening. i am running paradigm moniter 7 speakers. the amp sounds great. i notice however that when the amp reaches a certain volume (about 10 o'clockin 70watts by 2 mode) that the speakers drivers pop very easily , extremely unpleasant. i am not convinced that the speakers have reached their max at all. my reason: i also have a new harman kardon avr630. it can move the drivers much more (in 2 ch mode) than the marantz without "popping" the drivers, and is much "louder" . i feel the marantz has much more potential and is probably more powerfull than my hk. do you have any ideas. also i think the speaker relays need to be cleaned ,could this cause the problem? how do you get the clear plastic cover off that surrounds the relays?i read in the tips and tricks area how to clean them, but cant get the cover off. thanks for your help/time! sincerely, patrick.
A: Hello Patrick,
You should have the Marantz tested for power and distortion. It sounds like it may be clipping prematurely, which will eventually damage your speakers. The relay cover must be carefully pried off.
03-27-04
Q: Hi,
I'm running a Marantz 2270 on Quadral-SX1700 speakers. These speakers are specified on 100 W/8Ohm. When driving the Marantz on upper than 2/3 volume (the pot), there's a cracking noise out of the speakers when the audio-signal
is loud. Marantz specified 70W for the 2270, I read in some internet-resources that nowadays the 2270 is around 105W per channel.
Is that the problem, or is it located in the Marantz itself?
ThanksA: Hello Dirk,
The 2270 is rated at 70 watts RMS per channel into 8 ohms. You are driving the amp into clipping, which will eventually damage your speakers. The amp may be clipping for a couple of reasons. Either it has a problem, or you need a bigger amp.
02-10-04
Q: Hi Tim,
I took my Marantz 2235B to the shop and they found a bad output transistor(s). I got it home last Thursday and all was well. Everything appeared to function correctly. Last Saturday evening, I was listening to the radio through headphones (Sennheiser). I had the speakers (old smaller Advents) switched off. While listening to the radio I turned on a CD player and at that moment, lost all audio. I then saw a plume of smoke coming from where the power amplifier is. I switched the unit off immediately and unplugged it. I took it back to the repair shop and they blamed my speakers which I have been using for years with a Yamaha integrated amplifer. They said all the parts they replaced (which I can't tell you exactly, but it appears that two new output transistors were replaced), burned up and need to be replaced again.
Could the simple act of turning on my CD player (which has been hooked up to my Yamaha for years) have blown out the amplifier? I have owned a lot of audio gear through the years and I have never experienced a problem like this. Most gear is fairly robust. Now granted, we're talking about a 30 year old receiver. Could values of the solid state components have changed to the point where they are barely doing the job they were designed to do? Thanks!
Mike
A: Hello Mike,
From your description, the speakers were clearly not at fault. It is possible that the repair was not completed correctly. For instance, the bias should have been checked and adjusted following the output replacement. If it was not, and there was a problem, the amp would just burn itself up. Did the shop do a power and distortion test? The proper repair of an amplifier requires that it is thoroughly tested and adjusted. In all fairness to the shop it could have been a random failure that caused the repair to go south, or even an as yet undetected problem that is also responsible for the initial failure.
02-08-04
Q: Hi
I have an old model receiver thats a kh-858 from centrex and i have a lot of speakers hooked up to it, and when i was jamming on it with my electric guitar,all of a sudden it stopped, no more music played in the speakers. We were just about to do a small concert in my backyard and it stopped. I didn't have it full blast but it was close to full blast so i dont know what happened. do you have any suggestions on what might be wrong or how to fix it?
thanks,
BrianA: Hello Brian,
Form the sounds of it, you blew it up. Home audio equipment is not designed to handle the dynamics of live instruments, such as an electric guitar. "Lots of speakers" is also a bad idea. Most home audio is designed for 8 ohm loads, some will handle 4, but if you connect more than 2 speakers per channel you have most certainly exceeded 4 ohms. To be specific, you overloaded the amp section and undoubtedly shorted the output devices.
01-07-04
Q: i have a pioneer RT-909, input signal monitors fine but when recorded, the recording has no highs. I have cleaned the heads with head cleaner and adjusted them, it is a little better but still no real high frequency. Any help appreciated. I am happy to compensate you for any help leading to repair of this deck.
Tony
A: Hello Tony,
Could be the head is worn out. Check for a significant groove where the tape has been riding on the heads. You should have the playback and record electronics aligned before assuming the head is bad. Also, try another brand of tape. Ideally, a tape machine is aligned for a specific tape type and if the tape type is changed it is re-aligned for correct performance.
01-01-04
Q: HELLO TIM ! I RECENTLY PURCHASED A PIONEER SX-1980 RECIEVER FROM A LOCAL BUY AND SELL MAGAZINE FOR $300.00US.THE UNIT IS IN LIKE NEW CONDITION. THE ONLY PROBLEM IT HAD WAS THE TUNING DIAL WAS SEIZED BECAUSE THERE WERE NO DECENT FM RADIO STATIONS IN THIS MARKET UNTIL RECENTLY.I HAVE SINCE FREED THIS UP AND PROCEEDED TO CLEAN THE TUNER WITH TUNER CLEANER THAT I BOUGHT FROM RADIO SHACK.AFTER I SPRAYED THIS INTO THE TUNER AND WAITED A DAY FOR IT TO DRY OUT BEFORE PLUGGING IT IN I NOTICED THAT THE SIGNAL STRENGTH NEEDLE DROPPED FROM 4.5 TO LESS THAN 1 AND THAT THE STEREO LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON.I UNDERSTAND IT COULD TAKE MONTHS OR LONGER FOR THIS PROBLEM TO DISAPPEAR.MY QUESTION IS,DID I DAMAGE THE SENSITIVITY OF THE UNIT BY DOING THIS AND IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO REMEDY THIS PROBLEM? DOCTOR WHYTE IF YOU COULD OFFER ANY ADVICE I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT. THANKYOU IN ADVANCE;
BEST REGARDS,
ANDREW.
SYDNEY
CANADAA: Hello Andrew,
NO NEED TO YELL! First of all, you used an inferior cleaner. You may have to repeat the process with the correct cleaner and wait, but only hours not months . Of course there could be other issues as well. The good news is that you basically stole this receiver which allows you plenty of latitude regarding the repairs.
Tim
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